Aug 13, 2020 Meeting
York County Beekeepers Association (YCBA) meets the 2nd Thursday of each month at the Bullock Creek Church, 1188 Edgefield Road, York, SC 29745 at 6:30 pm.
The Co-op will be open from 5:00 pm until 6:15 pm
Come hear Dr. Hood, a retired apiculturist from Clemson and a leading figure in establishing the SCBA and local clubs. He will be leading an “In the Hive” discussion, so bring all your questions.
The colony’s growth is diminishing in numbers and the honey flow is coming to an end. When bees stop producing honey, remove all honey supers (except one)! Remember to leave one full super of honey for the bees. This is what they will live on during the winter.
No more chance of swarming and the honey dearth will appear. Weaker colonies may get robbed of their honey so entrance reducers should be placed on weak colonies or move weak colonies to another bee yard.
The varroa mite levels are high now and an evaluation of Mite levels should be maintained during this time of year. If you determine mite levels are too high, an integrated pest management (IPM) practice should be added to your list of beekeeping chores.
Some colonies may need food and some small clusters may need additional frames of brood to increase bee numbers.
- Check for failing queens and re-queen.
- Remove honey and remove empty supers
- Check for mites (medicate if needed)
- Feed weak colonies (pollen and syrup)
- Equalize colonies
- Attend bee meetings and purchase equipment
Feeding our bees: from this article (please note that not all our beekeepers believe in feeding sugar water)
How, When, Why To Feed Bees
We would never feed any bees that would be making honey or have honey supers in place, but for sustaining hives and keeping the honey bee alive. All sugar syrup is consumed by the bees and is never blended, shared, mixed, or sold as honey. Our Integrity is everything to us and hope yours is too.
When I first started out in beekeeping I thought to myself, why would anyone want to feed bees sugar syrup? I refused to think that mother nature was less than capable of feeding the bees. I also thought that feeding sugar syrup was close to sin. That said I typically only feed our bees in two circumstances. If the hive’s life depends on it or if we are treating the hive for an illness. For us that would typically happen in early spring or late winter.
Here are some ideas for mature weights of a bee hive for each quarter of the season in which you will need to learn.
This is for two double deep 10 frame boxes.
FALL: Brood chambers only: 125#+
WINTER: 90-110# SPRING: 70-90# If weights were to drop severely below these weights consider reading on and feeding your bees.
The easiest way to feed your new Package, Nuc, or mature bee hives is with a frame feeder. This typically comes in 1 Gallon Size made by Motherlode or Mann Lake. I’ve also seen 2 gallon frame feeders but for the sake of keeping it easy I would stick to the 1 gallon size. The ladders that extend into the middle of the feeder reduce the drowning effect but “keepers beware” you will see dozens of drowning bees at some point with this style of feeder. Entrance or top feeders work but I like the convenience of the frame feeder close to the bees. If you have a chance of Raccoons or Skunks entrance feeders or mason jars on top of your hive are prone to feed the wild life. Again a frame feeder would be a bit more safe and reduce risk. Once you attract wildlife it’s hard to get rid of them.
Consider mixing a couple of quarts per session. If you mix up a gallon you could regret making a recipe mistake and or just making too much at once. Find a funnel or make one out of paper. How much should I feed? Feed until your brood chambers are nearly full. Give them food until the hive recovers or looks robust and healthy. Stop feeding when you have to add a honey super.
We recommend feeding in early Spring and in times of need. That said follow the seasonal recipes below. Another good reason to feed would be to establish a new hive. Making wax requires a lot of energy for your new hive. Providing this extra resource at the beginning will jump start your hive and help your young bees draw out more comb. This is needed at such a critical time for the success of your hive. It’s not uncommon to feed for a few weeks in May. This will likely take or 2 to 4 gallons of sugar syrup to really help your package or nuc.
It’s simple. A balanced diet of carbs and protein. I won’t get into the diet specifics but I will tell you that the sugar syrup you’re providing is the carbs your bees need. The pollen being brought in will likely provide the proteins needed to raise healthy baby bees. Let’s get real, you wouldn’t just eat carbs only to have a healthy balanced diet so why would you expect your bees to live on say all the pollen or just carbs? The concept is easy, your bees need more than they have so do what can to help? You likely bought your bees so protect them if possible. Some people ask? Why not honey. Well we consider that a valid question. You can feed your bees honey stores from themselves but beware. Feeding extracted honey to your bees has some problems, and I do not recommend it. Plus if you’re new at this you might not have access to honey from last year. Also you gave all that surplus to your friends and family last year, so what now?
RECIPES TO FOLLOW
Sugar syrup can be made in three different formulas, each has its own special purpose and is used at a specific time of the year which I’ll describe below. Warning you must become bakers at this point. Using cups won’t work so well. Think in pounds and ounces. We recommend using white granulated cane sugar if possible. Avoid brown sugar, beat sugar, powder sugar, or honey. Remember the beekeeper code; never feed the bees while honey supers are in place.
1:2 This formula is a very light syrup, it is made using one part of sugar to two parts of water. For example, 1 pound sugar to 2 pounds of water. It is used in late winter and early spring to stimulate the queen to lay eggs and helps the bees draw more comb.
1:1This formula is a medium weight syrup, it is made using one part of sugar to one part of water. For example, 1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of water. It is used as an artificial nectar to feed brood larvae in spring and summer or to get the bees to draw more comb.
2:1 This formula is a very heavy syrup, it is made using two parts of sugar to one part of water. For example, 2 pound of sugar to 1 pound of water. This is used in fall or early winter as a honey substitute to feed your bees. The bees should add weight and will use these stores throughout winter. Ideal weight for a typical winter bee hive is about 120-140 pounds.
Making the syrup: All three syrups are simple to make. Sometimes we call them simple syrups. Bring proper weight of water to a boil then reduce heat to low. Add proper weight of sugar and stir until dissolved. Never cook your sugar. In fact suggesting boiling is a bad idea. Just get all the sugar dissolved . Let cool and then feed. If you’re adding a feeding stimulant or essential oils add the proper amount as suggested on the bottle, mix well and watch your bees enjoy.